The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol and free fatty acids (FFA), has an important role for the skin barrier function. The presence of the long... Show moreThe stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol and free fatty acids (FFA), has an important role for the skin barrier function. The presence of the long periodicity phase (LPP), a unique lamellar phase, is characteristic for the SC. Insight into the lipid molecular arrangement within the LPP unit cell is imperative for understanding the relationship between the lipid subclasses and the skin barrier function. In this study, the impact of the CER head group structure on the lipid arrangement and barrier functionality was investigated using lipid models forming the LPP. The results demonstrate that the positions of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), two essentials CER subclasses, are not influenced by the addition of another CER subclass (N-(tetracosanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER NdS), N-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER AS) or D-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER AP)). However, differences are observed in the lipid organization and the hydrogen bonding network of the three different models. A similar localization of CER NP and CER NS is also observed in a more complex lipid model, with the CER subclass composition mimicking that of human SC. These studies show the adaptability and insensitivity of the LPP unit cell structure to changes in the lipid head group structures of the CER subclasses. Show less
The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the... Show moreThe barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide (i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases. Show less
Petracca, B.; Nădăban, A.; Eeman, M.; Gooris, G.S.; Bouwstra, J.A. 2021
The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of... Show moreThe stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O3) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O3 induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O3 can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O3 and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately, the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies revealed that O3 induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega‑O‑acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, these changes improved the barrier function of the SCS. Show less